“Versa il vino, eccellente Marzemino!”
Posted on | December 9, 2009 | 1 Comment
Translation: “Pour me wine, excellent Marzemino”.
2005 De Tarczal Marzemino Trentino Husar
Mozart’s Don Giovanni, on his way to Hell, sung the praises of this relatively obscure varietal. Marzemino grows natively throughout much of northern Italy. From the Trentino region, by way of Garagiste, comes the highly enjoyable 2005 De Tarczal Marzemino Trentino Husar.
The bottles come with a tag attached the neck which tells a quick history of the wine’s production. Ruggero de Tarczal dedicates the wine to his direct ancestor, a Hussar Officer in the Austro-Hungarian Cavalry. Lineage of the De Tarczal vineyards can be traced back to the turn of the last century, as a parcel owned by Gèza dell’Adami de Tarczal, admiral of the Royal Austro-Hungarian Fleet. He received the land as part of the dowry of Countess Alberti.
The Husar, much like the duplicitous Don, is a handsome wine. It first tempts you with an earthy but robust nose of juicy plums, some red berries, and a hint of wet leaves. The winemaker mentions violets in their published tasting notes, but I didn’t get anything remotely floral. In the glass, the wine is a light ruby-red on top with plummy purple undertones, which seems to be the classic profile for marzemino.
Were I tasting this blind, I would swear this was a well-rounded but young Loire Cab Franc (more Chinon than Bourgueil) or a light Barbaresco. Upon the first taste, you cannot miss the bright acidity, consistent with the Loire comparison. I noted some dark cherry (almost like a splash of Pinot) and red berries, as well as an underlying minerality. The Husar lacked any of the vegetal, green bell pepper notes that many Cab Francs have. Instead, it finished with more of a black peppery bite that dissipated quickly. The finish is dry and smooth, but doesn’t linger. It left me wanting more.
The Husar didn’t pair well with my homemade tomato sauce. Despite the good initial acidity, it just couldn’t hold up to the acid of the tomato and garlic. I should have known as much, pairing southern Italian cuisine with a northern Italian wine. This would be better paired with some game or smoked meats, maybe a nice brisket. The post-dinner glasses were much more enjoyable, as the wine opened up some more in the glass and didn’t have anything to compete with on our palates.
Price Range: $15-20
Composition: 100% Marzemino
Alcohol: 13%
Production: 75 cases (according to Jon Rimmerman/Garagiste)
Website: de Tarczal – Husar
Bonus Link: “Don Giovanni On His Way to Hell (II)” by Jack Gilbert
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December 14th, 2009 @ 8:25 pm
Great first review! 75 cases seems pretty limited so I am impressed that it is below $20. Nice find.